Serious Kitchen Play


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them in sauces, gravies and soup. Try to avoid them in pie fillings.  
Comparing Starch Thickeners  
How viscous  
Starch  
Coloring  
on a scale of  
1
-3 (1 thinnest)  
Flavor  
Pasty  
Pasty  
Pasty  
Slightly  
pasty, bitter  
Flavorless  
Appearance  
All-purpose  
flour  
Cake flour*  
Bread flour  
Rice flour  
Brown-gray  
Off-white  
Gray-white  
1
1
1
2
Nearly opaque  
Nearly opaque  
Nearly opaque  
Nearly opaque  
Brown-gray  
Arrowroot  
Cornstarch  
Tapioca  
Off-white  
Off-white  
Light gray  
2
1
3
Pearly, trans-  
lucent  
Translucent  
Nearly  
flavorless  
Flavorless  
Nearly  
transparent  
*
Cake flour gives the smoothest, whitest sauce of all the three wheat flours  
Finishing touches  
Both the type of filling and old tradition dictate whether to use a single crust, double crust,  
or a lattice top on a single crust. Different pies are more attractive or more practical with one or  
another type. The choice is often yours. Do you, your family or guests like pie crust? Use double  
crust. Are they concerned with high fat and cholesterol? Use a single crust. Is eye appeal important?  
Use a lattice top. Whichever you choose, you can put almost anything into a pie or tart pastry.  
Creativity starts with the finishing touches. You can do anything with the edges or, if you  
use double-crust, with the top. Leftover pieces of chilled dough is your starting material for designs  
of any sort. Stick the finished pieces on the top crust with just a hint of moisture. Just remember, the  
dough must remain cold. If it starts warming up while you are creating your masterpiece, take a rest  
and let it cool in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.  
Pie wash on the top crust or lattice add beauty and shine. When you brush melted butter,  
milk, cream, egg wash or egg yolk on the crust, the finished product turns an appealing chestnut  
color. Sprinkling some granular sugar on top gives the crust an extra sparkle. A fruit glaze is a  
traditional finish on tarts for a beautiful effect.  
The French prefer a close relative of our American pie pastry called galette pastry. Its  
composition is similar to our pie pastry, but they construct it free-form by hand, like pizza dough,  
and bake it on a baking sheet, not in a pie plate, until crisp. Butter is the traditional fat of galette  
pastry, and with its high butter content it is difficult to roll it out neatly like a pie dough—that is  
why the free-form construction.  
Tart pastries are higher in total fat, therefore richer than pie pastries and they contain sugar.  
The fat and sugar inhibit gluten development so tart doughs are not as susceptible to overworking as  
American pie doughs are. In fact, you can safely reroll them twice if needed without sacrificing  
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