Serious Kitchen Play


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dough or if you have a particularly stiff , resistant dough. In a proper kneading technique you use  
the heels of your hands with a powerful pushing motion directed down against the dough and away  
from you. With this pressing movement you develop the gluten sheets. Repeat this a number of  
times. Then press the dough down hard, pick it up, stretch it, fold it over, and repeat. Turn the dough  
from time to time so the entire mass gets worked. Pick it up and stretch it occasionally, then throw it  
down hard against your kneading surface. It soon develops into a smooth, elastic, rubbery stuff that  
gets easier and easier to work. Keep dusting the working surface with flour should the dough start  
sticking.  
How do you tell a fully kneaded dough? Break off a small piece and stretch it until it is as  
thin as pizza crust. Hold it up against the light—the fine lines you see throughout are the gluten  
sheets you just developed. A fully kneaded dough feels firm and when you gently poke a dent into it  
with your finger, it slowly springs back. Bakers call this a ready or fully-aged dough.  
If you use an electric mixer, follow the instructions of the mixer manual. You may have to  
mix and knead half the ingredient at a time if your mixer is small, then combine the two halves. The  
larger, more powerful home electric mixers can handle large enough dough for two large loaves at a  
time (that is 10 cups of white flour or 8 cups of part white, part whole wheat flour). Mixing should  
take 2 to 3 minutes once you learn the trick of adding liquid slowly and gradually. After the dough  
has formed, their recommended kneading time is 3 to 5 minutes.  
TASTINGS Hint for food mixer kneading  
A trick some bakers use for mixing bread dough ingredients, but manuals may not  
mention, is to use the flat beater first. This starts forming a dough within a minute.  
As soon as the machine starts complaining that the work is too hard, take the flat  
beater off, scrape it clean and switch to the dough hook. A little more cleanup to  
do but it is quick and efficient.  
You can also use a food processor to mix dough. A larger powerful processor can take 5  
cups of whole wheat flour or 8 cups of white flour. The second batch will bake into two medium  
loaves. Again, follow your processor’s recommendation on how much to mix. Mixing takes just  
seconds in a food processor, kneading takes a minute or two.  
In an kitchen experiment I baked three identical loaves but kneaded the dough by three  
different techniques: by hand, in a food processor and with a food mixer. The results were not very  
different and unless the three breads were side by side, you could not tell them apart either in flavor,  
texture or shape. Closer inspection revealed slight differences. The hand-kneaded bread loaf was  
somewhat smaller, with slightly smaller air holes, while the food processor loaf was the tallest and  
lightest, suggesting that this method develops the gluten structure the best. The difference is small  
enough, however, that I recommend you use whichever method you prefer.  
Let the dough rise till double in size  
The first rise, depending on the type of bread you are baking, takes one to several hours. The  
ideal temperature for rising is 80°F (27°C), but the dough will do fine anywhere between 75º and  
8
5°F (24º and 30°C). If it is much cooler, it rises too slowly, and the texture of the bread will be  
coarse. Besides, it takes for ever before it doubles in size. If much warmer, the dough rises too fast,  
and thriving bacteria produce unpleasant-tasting sour by-products giving your bread off-flavors as  
well as making the texture uneven.  
play © erdosh 267  


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