| 250 | 251 | 252 | 253 | 254 |
| 1 | 103 | 205 | 308 | 410 |
|
alternative to the ancient tradition of yeast leavening. Baking powder first became available
commercially in 1850.
TASTINGS Before baking powder
Baking powder had a predecessor—ash. Ash is an alkali which produces
gas in contact with acid and liquid, leavening the bread the same way as
baking powder. Native Americans leavened breads with ash left after
burning the woody parts of specifically selected shrubs.
When introduced, some contemporary scientists hailed chemical leavening as a healthy
alternative to yeast that they had thought was harmful to humans. As a result its popularity spread
fast. This was particularly so after the French Pasteur's discovery in 1857, that it is a microorganism
that causes yeast fermentation. Chemical leavener has been on our kitchen shelves ever since. It is
not actually an alternative to yeast but another, quicker, easier means of producing wonderful baked
products.
The idea of chemical leavening is simple. A harmless alkali chemical (sodium bicarbonate
or baking soda) produces carbon dioxide gas. The thick dough traps the gas that gives the bread a
light, airy texture. The chemicals, if you use just the right amounts, are neutralized in the process,
leaving neither a bad flavor nor harmful residue behind in the bread. The wonderful yeasty favor
(which is the by-product of yeast feeding on sugar) is missing, of course, but some people actually
prefer quick breads. In the Southern U.S. cornbreads and biscuits are standard fare, still favored
over the second best, the store-bought "light bread"—the commercial white bread introduced in the
1940s.
Originally bakers added baking soda to the slightly acidic bread batter made acid with sour
milk, buttermilk or yogurt. The liquids produce a chemical reaction with the alkali baking soda, a
reaction that produces carbon dioxide bubbles. Without the acid part you cannot leaven bread with
baking soda. The next step in evolution was baking powder, an improvement over baking soda.
Baking powder is a mixture of baking soda and cream of tartar crystals. Cream of tartar is an acid so
bubbles develop in the dough or batter even if you add no other acidic liquid.
The finely-ground crystals of cream of tartar powder dissolve quickly, produce an acid when
you add liquid to the batter or dough. In the same time baking soda goes into solution. Together
they start a chemical reaction that produces a salt, carbon dioxide gas and water in the bread batter.
Once you trap the carbon dioxide gas, you guarantee a light bread.
Baking powder is a simple mix and should you ever run out you can make your own. Mix
cream of tartar and baking soda at a ratio of 2:1. Commercial baking powder has several other
ingredients, but they only increase shelflife and prevent clumping.
Double acting baking powder, an ingenious invention, is the next improvement over the
original baking powder. It is the type most widely used today. Double-acting baking powder is a
blend of two chemicals, both of which generate carbon dioxide gas. One chemical generates it at
room temperature as soon as you moisten it with the liquid ingredients. The second develops
bubbles only when the batter reaches a certain temperature. This happens in the oven during baking.
The first reaction is mild, creating small bubbles throughout the batter. The second one
only starts its more vigorous work after the batter has partially solidified in the oven so the quick
burst of new gases will not disturb the existing structure, either cracking the surface or collapsing
the entire dough. This second action enlarges the bubbles of the original set.
play © erdosh 252
Page
Quick Jump
|