white bowl. Even the tiniest amount of yolk keeps the egg whites from beating into a foam with

best volume. The fat in the yolk interferes with the foaming process. If you see any yolk that

slipped thrugh, fish it out with half an egg shell or a small spoon. Do the same with any stray egg

shells.

TASTINGS Converting eggs to common kitchen measures

whole large eggs = 1 cup

large egg whites = 1 cup

2 large egg yolks = 1 cup

egg white = approximately 2¼ tablespoons

Storing eggs

For maximum shelflife and flavor, refrigeration is always best for eggs. Don’t worry

about leaving uncracked eggs on the kitchen counter for several hours—the shell is a good

protection against microorganism or spoilage. (Hens leave them like that for a week or two

without harm.) But once the shell is broken or cracked, store it like you do your milk. Egg

distributors store fresh eggs for 6 to 8 weeks at 46°to 50°F (8°to 10°C) at high humidity.

Storing them at colder temperature is hard on the quality, too. Most home refrigerators run at

around 40°F (4°C), a little too cold for eggs. Store your unshelled eggs in their carton in the

warmest part of the refrigerator, either on the top shelf or in the door.

Packaging experts designed egg cartons to keep moisture in, odors out and rigid enough

to reduce the danger of cracking or breaking the fragile shells. Don’t transfer them to the egg

storage cups built into some refrigerator doors. (Refrigerator designers didn’t consult food

scientists on that one.)

TASTINGS 1000-year-old eggs

We have all heard about thousand-year-old Chinese eggs but they grossly

exaggerate their age. The Chinese preserve them in lime (the chemical, not the

citrus), pine ash and salt, but not even for 1,000 days. They keep fresh raw duck

eggs in the mix for 50 to 100 days. The shell comes out looking rough and earthy

(like a 1000-year old artifact), and the inside turns translucent blue-green and

firm.

Freezing raw scrambled whole eggs in small packets is a convenient way to handle an

egg deficit emergency. Whole eggs out of the shell freeze well. Egg whites also freeze well by

themselves and are good for any purpose after defrosting, including whipping into perfect foam.

Keep the extra egg whites in a jar in the freezer. Some people prefer to freeze egg whites in ice-

cube trays. Once frozen, they pop out the cubes and store them in a plastic bag in the freezer,

with a label giving the amount of egg whites in each cube. That way they can defrost a little at a

time instead of the entire collection.

Freezing egg yolks alone, however, calls for some extra effort. They turn into a thick gel

(

solution. Gently stir either salt or sugar into the yolks that stabilizes them at the rate of. 1/8

teaspoon salt or 2 teaspoons sugar for every 4 yolks. Freeze egg yolks in the smallest possible

the process is called gelation), that becomes a rubbery mass when you defrost it. But there is a

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